The Alpine journal Author:Leslie Stephen Purchase of this book includes free trial access to www.million-books.com where you can read more than a million books for free. This is an OCR edition with typos. Excerpt from book: sattel has been made by Herr Wyss and three companions. The E. flank of the Hohjagiburg was ascended by Herr F. Miiller and two friends, and found much less diff... more »icult than it looked, while another variation on the Kingspitze was made by the same gentleman. A direct route up the W. face of the Lauteraarhorn was made by MM. Scabell and Egger. This must be very close to the route taken by our members, Messrs. Oakley Maund and Baumann in 1881, and as the rocks are described as ' good throughout and very entertaining,' it is well worth the attention of climbers who have hitherto been deterred from making the ascent of that mountain owing to the length of the route by the Strahlegg. A good deal of attention was paid in 1913-4-5 to the summits of the Lepontine and Ticinese Alps. In the Bernina Alps Colonel Strutt, with Josef Pollinger, extended his almost unique knowledge of that district by making the first ascent of the Pizzo del Ferro Orient-ale by the N. face, involving constant step-cutting in hard snow and ice at an angle of 55 to 05. The enormous summit cornice was only overcome by the climber, perched on the guide's shoulders, finally managing to cut a hole through the great overhanging lip. No wonder Pollinger always classes Colonel Strutt as the best amateur iceman with whom he has travelled. Other difficult ascents in the same district were made by Signori Scotti, Calegari, Binaghi, Fasana, and others. Practically nothing new is reported, if indeed anything new remains, in the Central Pennine Alps. The weather in the years 1914-5 was much against high mountain expeditions. Experienced men among our members report that in no July in their recollection were the mountains so plastered with snow as in July 1914; thus even the otherwise tame Monte Viso required qu...« less