North of Naples South of Rome Author:Paolo Tullio Since childhood, Paolo Tullio has returned each year to his hometown of Gallinaro. Here he describes a hilariously chaotic wine competition, samples the Italian cantina, demonstrates how to roast a pig whole, instructs on market-day haggling & truffle-hunting, & investigates the charms & scams of Naples. Tullio looks with disbelief at a tortuous... more » bureaucracy, informs how to win a local election, observes the Catholic Church s role in daily life, & reflects upon a recent earthquake that saved the valley. With fascinating detours on local buildings, history, folklore, & fashion, the reader tours feasts & fireworks, led by the pen & ink drawings of water colorist Susan Morley.« less