River Of Ruins Author:Louis J. Halle RIVER OF RUINS TRAPICHE La Luddtn second from right RIVER of RUINS LOUIS J. HALLE, JR. NEW YORK HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY To MASTER HUGH GLADWIN SON OF TOM AND FLORA My Dearest Hugh Two weeks have left their mark On both of us since that auspicious day When out of the eternal deep-sea dark From which we all were cast upon this clay, Eyes shut, you ... more »landed on our common coast. The waves that bore you here bore us here too, Our saints, our slaves, our leaders of the host The same safe haven held us while we grew. Though charity dwells underneath the lee Where you are sheltered still, the great wind blows Unmercifully where the wind is free Our time is short, clear Hugh, to study toes. Here on the storm-swept plain where cravens crawl, May you some clay stand up, erect and tall L. J. H., JR. February i All drawings and photographs in this book, except as otherwise acknowledged, are by the author. Hie drawing of quot Mexie quot on page 123 is by Thomas F. Gladwin. PREFACE I THE BROTHERHOOD OF A common pursuit may reach across the ages, this book should contain a salute of some sort to Macaulay s New Zealandcr. Macaulay had been commenting on the longevity of the Roman Church, and to bring his paragraph to a rounded conclusion he added quot She may still exist in undiniinishcd vigor when some traveller from New Zealand shall, in the midst of a vast solitude, take his stand on a broken arch of London Bridge to sketch the ruins of St. Paul s. quot That vi sion, fantastic and real at once, has proved itself as memor able as truth so perhaps the reason why this ghost of an unborn New Zealander, brought into a book-review to point a casual remark, has not been laid after the lapse of a cen tury is that honest prophecy went into liis making. There he perches immortally on his broken arch, sketching the ruins of our present to which he is heir A century has passed since Macaulay wrote that, and the vision is, if anything, no longer quite so daring, so fantas tic It seems now that we may catch up with the prophecy sooner than was expected, that the broken arch may be ready for its occupant ahead of time, Macaulay was a student of history, the universal moral of which is sic transit, and it was from reading of the past, not from living under Victoria, that his prophecy was bom. But I cannot believe that any of the ancient Mayas fore saw Tom and me, foresaw that in a remote age we two should make our way with difficulty through the wilder ix x PREFACE ness that had repossessed their fields and, taking our stand on the broken arches of their palaces, photograph the ruins of their temples. For those Mayas knew no history except their own, which taught them, if anything, only that the path of civilization is upward. Yet here we undeniably are y Tom and I Here are the ruins And here is the New Zea lander s volume of sketches . . . ILLUSTRATIONS TRAPICHE La Lucfcita Frontispiece TIKAL Looking West from Temple I following page 336 TIKAL Model of Temple II LA LIBERTAD Tom on the savannas of Petn On the way to Polol LA AMELIA Stela I AGUAS CALIENTES Stela YAXCHXLAN Maler s quot Temple of KetzalcoatI . quot PIEDRAS NEGRAS Lintel i FIEDRAS NEGRAS Lintel 3 PALENQUE Temple of the Sun, and Palace PALENgUE Palace PUERTO ALVARO OBREcdN La Esperanza TRES NACidNES Alfonso Lopez and Family PUERTO ALVARO OBREG6N VILLA HERMOSA Gran Hotel Palacio VILLA HERMOSA Street Scene« less