Letters From Spain Author:Karel Capek L E T ljII FROM SPAIN By -KAREL 6APEK Traaslated by PAUL SELVER G. P. PUTNAMS SONS NEW YORK 1932 PRINTED IK GREAT BRITAIN PAGE NORD AND SUD EXPRESS ...... 7 D. R., BELGIQUE, FRANCE 13 CASTILLA LA VIEJA 17 PUERTA DEL SOL 21 TOLEDO 27 POSADA DE LA SANGRE 34 VELAZQUEZ o LA GRANDEZA 38 EL GRECO o LA DEVOCION 42 GOYA o EL REVERSO 46 Y LOS OTROS . 51 ... more »ANDALUCtA 5 CALLES SEVILLANAS 59 REJAS y PATIOS 65 GIRALDA 72 ALCAZAR 79 JARDINES 85 MANTILLAS 90 TRIANA 9 8 CORRIDA 103 LIDIA ORDINARIA 117 PAGE FLAMENCOS 133 BODEGA 148 CARABELA 152 PALMAS Y NARANJOS 157 TlBIDABO 164 SARDANA 169 PELOTA ........ 173 MONTSERRAT l8o VUELTA l86 Nord and Sud Express IN recent times what are known as international expresses have become extremely important accessories to travel, partly on practical grounds, which are of minor interest to us, and partly for poetical reasons. Time after time in modern poetry the Transcontinental Express dashes past you, and a mysterious porter calls out the names of stations Paris, Moscow, Honolulu, Cairo the Sleeping Cars dynamically scan the rhythm of Speed, and the Pullman, as it whirls by, suggests all the magic of distant places, for you must know that nothing less than first-class travel accommodation will satisfy the fine frenzy of the 7 poet. My poetical friends, allow me to tell you the plain truth about Pullmans and Sleeping Cars if you must know, they look infinitely more enticing from outside, when they flash past some sleepy little station, than from within. It is true that they make up for this by their tremendous speed, tmt it is no less true that all the same you are boxed up in them for fourteen or even twenty three blessed hours at a stretch, and as a rule thats enough to bore you - stiff. A local train from Prague to Repy jogs along at a less impres sive speed, but at least you know that in half an hour youll be able to get out and pursue some fresh adventure. A man in a Pullman car doesnt dash along at sixty miles an hour he just sits and yawns if the face on the right annoys him, he goes and sits down on the other side. The only redeeming feature of it is that he has a com fortable seat. Sometimes he gazes listlessly out 8 NORD AND SUD EXPRESS of the Window a small station whisks past, and he cant read the name of it a township flits by and he cant get put there hell never stroll along that road bordered with plane-trees, hell never dawdle on that bridge and spit in the river in fact he wont even find out what the river is called. Confound it all, thinks - the man in the Pullman, where - are we What, only Bordeaux Good Lord, this is a slow business Wherefore, if you want to have a trip with at least something exotic about it, get into a local train which puffs its way along from one wayside station, to another. Press your nose against the window-pane, so as not to miss anything here a soldier with a blue uniform gets in, hpre a child waves its hand at you a French peasant in a black cowl lets you have a swill at his wine, a young mother gives her baby a breast as pale as moonlight, the country yokels hold forth noisily and smoke their shag, a snuff-stained priest says his breviary the land unwinds, station after station, like the beads on a rosary. And then evening comes, when the jaded passengers doze like emigrants under the flickering lights. At that moment the lustrous International Express hurtles past on the other track with its load of weary boredom, with its Sleeping Cars and Dining Cars. Whats that, only Dax Heavens above, what a tiresome journey 9 LETTERS FROM SPAIN Not long ago I read a eulogy of the Suit-case of course, not the common or garden suit-case, but the International Suit-case, plastered over with hotel labels from Constantinople and Lisbon, Tetuan and Riga, St. Moritz and Sofia the suit case which is the pride of its owner, whose travels it records. I will reveal a dreadful secret to you those labels are sold in travel agencies...« less