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Waves and Beaches the dynamics of the ocean surface
Waves and Beaches the dynamics of the ocean surface Author:Willard Bacom "Is there anyone who can watch without fascination the struggle for supremacy between sea and land?" — "The sea attacks relentlessly, marshaling the force of its powerful waves against the land's strongest points. It collects the energy of distant winds and transports it across thousands of miles of open ocean as quietly rolling swell. On nearing... more » shore this calm disguise is suddenly cast off, and the waves rise up in angry breakers, hurling themselves against the land in final furious assault. Turbulent water, green and white, is flung against the sea cliffs and forced in the cracks between the rocks to dislodge them. When the pieces fall, the churning water grinds them against each other to form sand; the sand already on the beach melts away before the onslaught....The two combatants-waves and beaches-are the heroes of this book".« less