"Those who appreciate the ways of simple tribes, where every activity is direct and immediately understandable, are able to live among them." -- Ella Maillart
Ella Maillart (or Ella K. Maillart; * February 20, 1903, Geneva - ? March 27, 1997, Chandolin) was a French-speaking Swiss adventurer, travel writer and photographer, as well as a sportswoman. She had been captain of the Swiss Women's land hockey team and was an international skier. She also competed in the 1924 Summer Olympics as sailor in the Olympic monotype competition.
From the 1930s onwards she spent years exploring oriental republics of the USSR, as well as other parts of Asia, and published a rich series of books which, just as her photographs, are today considered valuable historical testimonies. Her early books were written in French but later she began to write in English. Turkestan Solo describes a journey in 1932 in Soviet Turkestan. In 1934, the French daily Le Petit Parisien sent her to Manchuria to report on the situation under the Japanese occupation. It was there that she met Peter Fleming, a well-known writer and correspondent of The Times, with whom she would team up to cross China from Peking to Srinagar (3,500 miles), much of the route being through hostile desert regions and steep Himalayan passes. The journey started in February 1935 and took seven months to complete, involving travel by train, on lorries, on foot, horse and camelback. Their objective was to ascertain what was happening in Sinkiang (then also known as Chinese Turkestan) where a civil war had been going on. Ella Maillart later recorded this trek in her book Forbidden Journey, while Peter Fleming's parallel account is found in his News from Tartary. In 1937 Ella Maillart returned to Asia for Le Petit Parisien to report on Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey, while in 1939 she undertook a trip from Geneva to Kabul by car, in the company of the Swiss writer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach. The Cruel Way is the title of Ella Maillart's book about this experience, cut short by the outbreak of the second World War.
She spent the war years in the South of India, learning from different teachers about Advaita Vedanta, one of the schools of Hindu philosophy. On her return to Switzerland in 1945, she lived in Geneva and at Chandolin, a mountain village in the Swiss Alps. She continued to ski until late in life and last returned to Tibet in 1986.
Ella Maillart's manuscripts and documents are kept at the Bibliothèque de Genève (Library of the City of Geneva), her photographic work is deposited at the Musée de l'Elysée in Lausanne, and her documentary films (on Afghanistan, Nepal and South India) are part of the collection of La Cinémathèque suisse in Lausanne, Switzerland.
Books by Ella Maillart
Turkestan Solo - One Woman's Expedition from the Tien Shan to the Kizil Kum (her journey from Moscow to Kirghizstan and Uzbekistan in 1932)
Forbidden Journey - From Peking to Cashmir (her trek across Asia with Peter Fleming in 1935)
Gypsy Afloat (an account of her years at sea)
Cruises and Caravans (autobiographical narrative)
The Cruel Way (from Geneva to Kabul with Annemarie Schwarzenbach)
Ti-Puss (the story of her years in India with a tiger cat as her companion)
The Land of the Sherpas (photographs and texts on her first encounter with Nepal in 1951)
In French:
Parmi la jeunesse russe - De Moscou au Caucase (about her stay in Moscow and crossing the Caucasus in 1931)
La vie immédiate (Ella Maillart's photographs and texts by Nicolas Bouvier)
Ella Maillart au Népal (photographs taken in 1951 and 1965 during a trek to the base camp of Mount Everest)
Cette réalité que j'ai pourchassée (letters to her parents, 1925 - 1941)
Ella Maillart sur les routes de l'Orient (the most evocative photographs she took during her travels)
Chandolin d'Anniviers (photographs and texts about her mountain village)
Envoyée spéciale en Manchourie (a series of articles written in 1934 for the French daily Le Petit Parisien)
(for information on publishers and dates of publication: www.ellamaillart.ch/livres_en.php)
Video and film (in French only)
Ella Maillart, écrivain. Un entretien avec Bertil Galland, 54 min., Les Films Plans fixes, Lausanne, 1984
Ella Maillart chez Bernard Pivot (émission La vie est un long fleuve tranquille), INA, France, 1989
Entretiens avec Ella Maillart: Le Monde mon héritage (radio interviews and the film Les itinéraires d'Ella Maillart, a 1973 Swiss TV production), 2009.
Publications concerning Ella Maillart
News from Tartary by Peter Fleming, 1936
Mount Ida by Monk Gibbon, 1948
A Forgotten Journey by Peter Fleming, 1952
(for additional titles in French: www.ellamaillart.ch/livres_en.php, as well as French version of Wikipedia article on Ella Maillart)
Honours
Prix Schiller, Switzerland (1953)
Sir Percy Sykes Memorial Medal of the Royal Society for Asian Affairs, London (1955)
Prix quadriennal de la Ville de Genève (1987)
Prix littéraire Alexandra David-Neel (1989)
Grand Prix du Livre maritime, Festival de Concarneau (1991)
Prix et Médaille Léon Dewez de la Société de Géographie de Paris (1994)
"Certain travellers give the impression that they keep moving because only then do they feel fully alive.""Every time I took a long leave from home, I felt as if I were going to conquer the world. Or rather, take possession of what is my birthright, my inheritance.""From the beginning, I wanted to live my own life, and patiently I shored up that desire against wind and tide.""Humanity is made up of an infinity of different individuals. Each of us travels for motives exclusively his own.""I am sure that instinctively we wish to be everything, to possess it-why cut the rose or marry the man, otherwise?""I can see now that a concept or even a feeling makes no sense unless out of our substance we spin around it a web of references, of relationships, of values.""I did not want to be depressed by the gap existing between my weakness and my ambition.""I gained direct knowledge of the life of the poor in big towns: I have lived the narrowing mechanism of its conditioning and feared it.""I had to live in the desert before I could understand the full value of grass in a green ditch.""I refuse to imprison our acts in the rigid mould of sentences.""I wanted to learn a few foreign languages, and therefore I had to go abroad.""It is always our own self that we find at the end of the journey. The sooner we face that self, the better.""Not only does travel give us a new system of reckoning, it also brings to the fore unknown aspects of our own self. Our consciousness being broadened and enriched, we shall judge ourselves more correctly.""One of the main points about travelling is to develop in us a feeling of solidarity, of that oneness without which no better world is possible.""One travels so as to learn once more how to marvel at life in the way a child does. And blessed be the poet, the artist who knows how to keep alive his sense of wonder.""One travels to escape from it all, but that is the great illusion: It cannot be done, since one travels with one's mind.""One travels to run away from routine, that dreadful routine that kills all imagination and all our capacity for enthusiasm.""Only when one is able to grasp wideness can one possess it.""Others are keen to see if natives other than us live better than we do, without heat in pipes, ice in boxes, sunshine in bulbs, music on disks, or images gliding over a pale screen.""Shall we ever see the 10 million things of the universe simultaneously in order to be the all? I am convinced that to live is to travel towards the world's end.""That idea of escapism... these words could sum up my life.""The benefits of the accomplished journey cannot be weighed in terms of perfect moments, but in terms of how this journey affects and changes our character.""The sooner we learn to be jointly responsible, the easier the sailing will be.""The state of minds vary according to the angle under which one examines them.""The timelessness of a concept has to be woven into the running warp of dying time, vertical power has to be wedded to the horizontal earth.""The true traveller is the one urged to move about for physical, aesthetic, intellectual as well as spiritual reasons.""The usual channels of university studies or secretarial work did not appeal to me. I cherished difficult dreams through confidence in myself.""The wideness of the horizon has to be inside us, cannot be anywhere but inside us, otherwise what we speak about is geographic distances.""There is only one valid species of voyage, which is walk towards the men.""Travel can also be the spirit of adventure somewhat tamed, for those who desire to do something they are a bit afraid of.""We must develop a deeper interest and greater understanding of the people we meet here or abroad. Like us, they are passengers on board that mysterious ship called life.""We want to feel that this earth is all ours, like our parents' house when we were children.""When I crossed Asia with my friend Peter Fleming, we spoke to no one but each other during many months, and we covered exactly the same ground. Nevertheless my journey differed completely from his.""When I look at something, it is certain that for an instant I am one with what I see.""When the heart speaks, its language is the same under all latitudes.""Words are impotent to describe certain emotions.""You can feel as brave as Columbus starting for the unknown the first time you enter a Chinese lane full of boys laughing at you, or when you risk climbing down in a Tibetan pub for a meal of rotten meat.""You do not travel if you are afraid of the unknown, you travel for the unknown, that reveals you with yourself."